The Machrie - A Luxury Wheelchair Accessible Hotel in Islay
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A luxury hotel on an island in Scotland, with wheelchair access, that’s also dog friendly? You might think that’s impossible to find, but I found exactly that at The Machrie on the stunning Inner-Hebridean island of Islay.
The Island
Islay (Ìle, in Gaelic) is the southernmost of the Inner Hebrides, just a 25-minute flight from Glasgow, or a two-hour ferry from Kennacraig, it’s famous for its peaty whiskies and no fewer than nine distilleries! If whisky isn’t your tipple, then you can choose from Islay rums and gins, too. Though I’m partial to a few drinks myself, it was the rugged coastline and fantastic wildlife that was pulling me to Islay. We just missed the arrival of the Greenland Barnacle Geese that arrive, up to 20,000 in a day, at the end of October. Still, we saw plenty of them on the tidal mudflats, resting a while before dispersing elsewhere for the winter.
Islay has over 3,000 residents, but you wouldn’t know it. The population is concentrated mainly in Bowmore and Port Ellen, but elsewhere you can traverse miles and miles of moorland with just the occasional passing local, raising a finger from the steering wheel in a relaxed, friendly gesture, one that is rarely seen elsewhere nowadays. Along the coast you’ll find picturesque fishing villages like Portnahaven and Port Wemyss (pronounced ‘weems’), where traditional white cottages follow the curve of the land, hugging rocky shorelines and braving the briny wind whipped up from turquoise-blue waters. We were met in Portnahaven by the official greeting committee of grey seals, popping their heads up to say hi as we passed, as curious about us as we were about them. Though adorable, grey seals have haunting cries that are carried by the wind and echo all about the horseshoe bay. You might hear them before you see them!
Portnahaven, still beautiful on a gloomy day
Islay is only a stones-throw from Jura, said to be one of the wildest, untamed parts of Scotland where humans are outnumbered by deer. It’s only a ten-minute crossing from Port Askaig in Islay to Jura, so you can easily extend your Inner Hebrides exploration during your stay at The Machrie.
Arriving at The Machrie
It’s a long drive up to the hotel from the main road, really giving you sense of how secluded your stay will be. In the distance, the white hotel reveals itself, nothing but sea and sky behind it - well, there’s a spectacular golf links, but I’ll come to that later!
When we arrived, I was really pleased to see three paved accessible parking spaces, with a solid path right up to the door of the hotel. There are double doors at the entrance, with a small lip that you may need to manoeuvre over.
We were met at the hotel reception where a pull-out section of the desk enabled me to fill out the usual bits of and bobs of paperwork. This shouldn’t need to be said, but it was great to be dealt with as the person who made the booking (so often, as an inter-abled couple, I am ignored while the reception staff deal with Kirsty, even though I’ve introduced myself and stated the booking is in my name). After checking in, we were taken to our ground-floor room, a short way down a hallway. The carpet, as expected in a luxury hotel, is thick and luxurious, so a little difficult for self-propelling, but manageable. There are a couple of fire-doors too that I need Kirsty’s assistance with. Two of the Machrie team kindly brought in our bags, stopping a while to fuss the dogs, of course. Millie and Kimber are often the centre of attention!
The Room
Accessible rooms at The Machrie are available as either a Comfy or a Cosy. We stayed in the Comfy, and it certainly lived up to its name! The decor is simple with touches of luxury; white cotton bed sheets, mood lighting, a retro radio, and robes in the wardrobe. Quirky art pieces are dotted around the room, in keeping with the hotel’s fantastic art collection - I’ll talk about more that later. There are lots of practical touches too, for example, the dark wooden desk had plenty of room for me to wheel under, there’s a fridge ideal for medication (though I used it to chill the tonic for my gin!), and red emergency pull-cords beside the bed and in the bathroom. All mirrors are at a great height for wheelchair users, and there’s a full-length mirror inside the wardrobe too.
Millie and Kimber weren’t forgotten either! They were provided with a tartan blanket, food and water bowls, and poo bags. It’s lovely when a place doesn’t just allow dogs but welcomes them. I was really happy to find out that dogs can be left in the room when you’re not there too, as long as they are in a crate. Not a lot of hotels allow this, but having this option meant we could enjoy the restaurant and do a couple of dog-free things we would’ve missed out on otherwise.
The room itself was on the small side for two humans, a wheelchair, and two dogs. I found that I could only access one side of the bed in my wheelchair, and I couldn’t get to the window either. The Machrie’s other accessible room has a slightly different layout with wheelchair access at the other side of the bed, and access to the window too. I’m ambulatory and almost always travel with Kirsty so it’s not a problem, but it’s worth asking about room layout when you book if you are a wheelchair user and traveling alone. There are no hoist facilities, but this room is fine for someone able to self-transfer.
The bathroom is a good-sized, bright space, with accessibility features a world away from the usual, rather clinical looking grab rails you’ll find elsewhere. The wetroom shower is large, with chrome fold-down rails and a black flip-down shower seat. The shower has two options; a powerful rainfall shower, or a standard showerhead, and the temperature controls are easy to use. There’s also a shower curtain which is great, as I usually end up drenching the entire wetroom if I’m not careful (it’s not just me, is it?). Laura Thomas Co. shampoo, conditioner, shower gel, hand wash, and body lotion are all provided.
The toilet itself isn’t too low and has the same chrome grab rails as in the shower, some on the wall and a fold-down rail at the side. They feel sturdy and safe. Each accessible room offers either right or left-hand transfer, something to confirm when booking. I found the sink a little low for my wheelchair, I couldn’t wheel right under. Also in the bathroom is a stand-free table with face cloths, cotton wool, and tissues. Beside the sink is a rack with wheels which is useful for holding toiletries and wheeling it wherever you need it.
A particularly nice touch was the daily weather reports left on little cards outside your door, seemingly by The Machrie’s personal weather fairy. All in all, we found the room an inviting, comfortable place to relax between adventures around Islay and gorgeous meals in the restaurant.
The Restaurant and Lounges
When we’re staying in hotels, I often miss having somewhere outside of the bedroom to relax. At The Machrie, there are three lounge areas to choose from, each with its own personality. There’s The Snug, a cosy little dog-friendly room with a wood burner crackling away, board games stacked up on shelves, and even a chess board. Meals can be served to The Snug too, if you’d rather not leave your dogs in the room. In the Courtyard Lounge you’ll find another fire, and several comfortable sofas around coffee tables adorned with books. Here you’re hugged by deep red walls packed with eclectic artwork. In the summer, doors open up into the courtyard. Upstairs you’ll find the dramatic Stag Lounge, with huge floor-to-ceiling windows looking out over the golf course. Of course, there’s another fire, rich velvet sofas, heaps of tartan, and even more beautiful pieces of art.
As you’ve probably guessed, art is a huge feature at The Machrie. From classic pieces to silk golfing scarves, big names to lesser-known artists, there’s something for everyone. It’s all put together with such a keen eye, these varied pieces look right at home side-by-side. Wandering the halls is like a visit to a gallery!
The 18 Restuarant & Bar continues the arty theme with yet another fantastic fireplace and window after window, giving you views right out to sea. We were grateful to try out the chef’s brand-new vegan menu, which is definitely one of the best vegan menus we’ve sampled anywhere. The chef is bold and creative with ingredients, not relying on mock-meats or the tired, old, vegan menu staples. Instead, there’s a focus on fresh ingredients grown on the island, paired with imaginative garnishes. And it’s a full vegan menu -you will honestly be spoiled for choice (though I would highly recommend the Nerabus Tempura Vegetables, and don’t leave without trying the Coconut and Raspberry Panna Cotta!) I’m sure this skill and creativity is reflected in the non-vegan dishes too. All of this is of course complimented by the brilliant restaurant team who were so friendly, helpful, and full of fantastic recommendations for our stay in Islay.
Accessibility-wise, I found the restaurant easy to access via a lift. I was offered a choice of two tables and found that they were high enough for me to wheel under comfortably. Breakfast is served in the same restaurant, a mix of table service and a continental buffet - staff would be happy to bring buffet items to your table if that was helpful. There’s an accessible bathroom upstairs by the restaurant too.
The bar is stocked with an impressive display of bottle after bottle of Islay’s best whiskies, rums, and gins. You’d need a long stay to sample them all, but the knowledgeable staff will be sure to help you choose something that will suit your palate. There are stools at the bar, and a small bar lounge area with armchairs and a sofa.
The Golf Links
I probably don’t look someone who has ever played golf in their life, and that would be because I’ve never played golf in my life. That said, if I did play golf, this is where I’d want to play it!
We were taken on a fantastic golf-buggy tour of the links by Dale who works at the Pro Shop within the hotel. Both Kirsty and I had a go at driving, and it was a brilliant laugh, but most of all we got see the beautiful, rugged landscape that golfers enjoy when they come to The Machrie. The long grass was blowing sideways with the wind on the day we visited, and the sea was crashing up against the rocks. Dale pointed out Portnahaven for us in the distance, and other spots along the coast. You can even see the Paps of Jura!
With Islay airport just 45 minutes from Glasgow, some airlines offer Golf Day packages where you can fly in, have your breakfast, play a round, enjoy a two-course meal, then head off home. I think once you’ve seen the place though, it would be hard not to stay.
The Cinema Room
Yes - you read that right! The Machrie has its own Cinema. It’s often used for screening big golf events, but there’s also a huge selection of films to choose from that you can watch on the big screen in the evening. There’s no designated wheelchair seating, but there’s a large area at the front, and step-free access to the front row. Get cosied up and enjoy your very own movie night!
The Spa, Gym and Sauna
The Machrie has a spa with two treatment rooms, offering massage, facials, and more. The spa uses ishga products, made from Scottish seaweed. There’s also a gym and a sauna. I didn’t have time to explore the spa (perfect excuse for another visit!) but The Machrie have confirmed that it is wheelchair accessible. What a lovely way to relax after a day’s adventuring!
The End of Our Island Adventure
It’s easy to get wrapped up in Islay, and in the comfortable luxury of The Machrie, so checking out on our last day felt like it came too soon. I think it’s a good sign if you leave a place, longing for just a bit longer! If you’d like to book yourself a stay, you can find The Machrie here.
Visiting the Hebridean Islands can seem out of reach when you start to think about visiting as a wheelchair user, but there is a lot to enjoy in Islay in that I’ll be covering in future blogs, including the Three Distilleries Pathway, the slightly more challenging Kildalton Cross, and beautiful Portnahaven. If you have any comments or questions about our stay, about Islay, or the Hebrides in general then please do pop a comment below, I’d love to hear from you.
